Complexion · Shade matching

Yellow undertone foundation

Depth is the easy half of a foundation match. Undertone is what decides whether it disappears or greys.

Written by Lamyaa Aissi, professional makeup artist, Casablanca.

Build in thin layers so every stage stays correctable.

What actually decides it

Test three candidates along the jawline, in daylight, never on the wrist. The correct shade vanishes because it matches the temperature of the neck.

Why yellow specifically. Yellow reflects strongly and can pull sallowness forward on olive skin.

Counter it with a cheek that has genuine red in it rather than peach, and keep the eye defined so the face is not lost.

On Moroccan skin, in a Moroccan climate

Most Moroccan skin runs olive or golden, and a shade matched on depth alone against a neutral or pink base goes grey within the hour. Expect to mix two shades rather than find one.

What it will not do

No shade compensates for unprepared skin. A perfect match on a dehydrated face still slides by hour two.

Questions

What decides yellow undertone foundation?

Test three candidates along the jawline, in daylight, never on the wrist. The correct shade vanishes because it matches the temperature of the neck.

Does this change on Moroccan skin or in a Moroccan climate?

Most Moroccan skin runs olive or golden, and a shade matched on depth alone against a neutral or pink base goes grey within the hour. Expect to mix two shades rather than find one.

What will it not do?

No shade compensates for unprepared skin. A perfect match on a dehydrated face still slides by hour two.

Related

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