Technique · Written in Casablanca
Eyeshadow for hooded eyes
Build the crease higher than your natural fold, so the colour is still visible when your eye is open.
Written by Lamyaa Aissi, professional makeup artist, Casablanca.
How to do it
- Prime the lid and 3–5mm above where the natural crease sits, then set it with a colourless powder.
- Find your working line with the eye open and relaxed, not closed. Where the fold disappears is where the shadow has to sit above.
- Place the transition shade — a matte neutral brown or taupe one to two shades deeper than your skin — above the natural crease, not in it.
- Keep matte in the fold zone. Shimmer goes only on the mobile lid and the inner corner.
- Blend upwards and outwards rather than sideways. Sideways widens; upwards lifts.
- Check every placement with the eye open before moving on.
The Moroccan adjustment
Hooded and deeper-set eyes are common on North African faces, which makes the standard advice — written for a visible lid — actively wrong here rather than merely unhelpful. On deeper skin the second adjustment applies too: cool taupes read as dullness, so warm bronze and copper do the work.
What goes wrong
Placing the crease shade in the natural fold. It disappears the moment the eye opens, and the usual response is to add more, which only makes a heavier invisible line.
Questions
Eyeshadow for hooded eyes?
Build the crease higher than your natural fold, so the colour is still visible when your eye is open.
What goes wrong most often?
Placing the crease shade in the natural fold. It disappears the moment the eye opens, and the usual response is to add more, which only makes a heavier invisible line.
Does this change on Moroccan skin or in a Moroccan climate?
Hooded and deeper-set eyes are common on North African faces, which makes the standard advice — written for a visible lid — actively wrong here rather than merely unhelpful. On deeper skin the second adjustment applies too: cool taupes read as dullness, so warm bronze and copper do the work.
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