Complexion · Shade matching
Pink undertone foundation
Depth is the easy half of a foundation match. Undertone is what decides whether it disappears or greys.
Written by Lamyaa Aissi, professional makeup artist, Casablanca.
Choose for the light it will be seen in, which is rarely the light you are standing in.
What actually decides it
Test three candidates along the jawline, in daylight, never on the wrist. The correct shade vanishes because it matches the temperature of the neck.
Why pink specifically. Pink pushes the face cooler, and a matching pink lip usually flattens the whole look.
Let the lip go deeper or warmer than the dress rather than matching it.
On Moroccan skin, in a Moroccan climate
Most Moroccan skin runs olive or golden, and a shade matched on depth alone against a neutral or pink base goes grey within the hour. Expect to mix two shades rather than find one.
What it will not do
No shade compensates for unprepared skin. A perfect match on a dehydrated face still slides by hour two.
Questions
What decides pink undertone foundation?
Test three candidates along the jawline, in daylight, never on the wrist. The correct shade vanishes because it matches the temperature of the neck.
Does this change on Moroccan skin or in a Moroccan climate?
Most Moroccan skin runs olive or golden, and a shade matched on depth alone against a neutral or pink base goes grey within the hour. Expect to mix two shades rather than find one.
What will it not do?
No shade compensates for unprepared skin. A perfect match on a dehydrated face still slides by hour two.
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