How to Do Cut Crease
By Lamyaa Aissi · Professional Makeup Artist, Casablanca
The cut crease — a sharply 'cut' line of concealer above the socket topped with a clean lid colour — is the most dramatic eye look in makeup. It makes eyes look bigger, lifted, and undeniably done.
It is also precision work. But broken into stages, each step is simple, and the technique is especially transformative on hooded eyes, which are common and beautiful and deserve looks designed for them.
What you'll need
- A full-coverage concealer and a small flat synthetic brush
- Matte transition shade and a lid shade (shimmer or matte)
- Eyeshadow primer and powder to set
Step 1: Build the backdrop
Prime the lid and blend a matte transition shade through and slightly above the crease, exactly as you would for a soft daily eye. This becomes the frame of the cut.
Step 2: Map the cut line
With eyes open, looking straight ahead, mark where the new crease should sit — at or slightly above the natural socket so it shows when the eye is open. On hooded eyes, higher is better.
Step 3: Carve with concealer
Using the flat brush, paint a clean line of concealer from the inner corner along your mapped line, then fill the whole lid below it. The top edge must stay sharp; the lid below should be an even, opaque layer.
Step 4: Set the concealer immediately
Press your lid shade — shimmer or a bright matte — straight onto the damp concealer. The concealer acts as both stencil and glue, making the colour intensely pigmented.
Step 5: Sharpen the edge
Clean any wobble in the crease line with a tiny bit of concealer on a detail brush. The contrast between the sharp cut and the soft transition above is the entire look.
Step 6: Finish the frame
Liner and lashes are almost mandatory here — a winged liner and dramatic lashes complete the architecture.
Pro tips from the chair
- Half-cut creases — carving only the outer two-thirds — are faster and softer, ideal for a first attempt.
- Tape or a business card held at the outer corner gives a perfectly angled edge for the wing and cut.
- Glitter or metallic pigment pressed on the concealer base is the classic bridal-party version of this look.
Frequently asked questions
Is a cut crease possible on hooded eyes?
It's arguably *designed* for them — cutting the crease above the natural fold creates lid space that is visible when the eyes are open. The key is mapping with open eyes.
Why does my cut crease look muddy?
The concealer layer was too thin or unset. It must be opaque and immediately pressed with shadow — that is what produces the clean colour-block effect.
Learn it hands-on in Casablanca
Reading only gets you so far — technique clicks when someone corrects your hand in real time. I teach one-on-one makeup lessons in Casablanca tailored to your face, your kit, and your skill level, from 600 MAD. Or if you'd rather have it done for you, book a session for your next event.
More guides: all tutorials · the full smokey eye masterclass · bridal makeup tutorial.