How to Contour
By Lamyaa Aissi · Professional Makeup Artist, Casablanca
Contouring borrows a rule from painting: shadows recede, light advances. A contour two shades deeper and cooler than your skin, placed where natural shadows fall, quietly restructures the face.
The version that works in daylight is far subtler than the Instagram version. Here's the wearable technique I use on clients — including brides who need it to read beautifully both in person and on camera.
What you'll need
- A matte contour product two shades deeper than skin, with a cool or neutral undertone
- An angled brush or small sponge
- Your bronzer and blush for balancing afterwards
Step 1: Find your hollow
Press a finger under the cheekbone — the natural depression running from the ear toward the corner of the mouth. Contour lives in the top of that hollow, stopping in line with the outer edge of the eye.
Step 2: Choose cream or powder
Cream contour under or over unset foundation gives the most skin-like sculpt; powder contour over set skin is quicker and more forgiving for beginners.
Step 3: Apply with a light diagonal stroke
Draw a soft line in the hollow, deepest near the ear, fading to nothing toward the mouth. On the nose, two thin lines close together read subtly; wide-set lines widen the nose.
Step 4: Blend upward into nothing
Blend the top edge of the cheek contour upward so the shadow melts into the cheekbone. A visible bottom edge is fine — a visible top edge never is.
Step 5: Rebalance with warmth
Contour alone can look grey. Sweep bronzer above it and blush at the apples to bring the face back to life.
Pro tips from the chair
- Round faces benefit from contour at the temples and under the cheekbone; long faces from contour at the hairline and chin instead — placement is personal.
- If your 'contour' looks orange, it's bronzer. True contour shades are beige-brown with no warmth.
- For hooded eyes, a whisper of contour shade in the socket line doubles as an eye lift.
Frequently asked questions
Do I contour before or after foundation?
Powder contour: after foundation and powder. Cream contour: after foundation but before powder. Never contour bare skin — it has nothing to blend into.
Is contouring necessary every day?
Not at all. For daily wear, bronzer alone gives dimension. I save full contour for photography, evening events, and bridal looks.
Learn it hands-on in Casablanca
Reading only gets you so far — technique clicks when someone corrects your hand in real time. I teach one-on-one makeup lessons in Casablanca tailored to your face, your kit, and your skill level, from 600 MAD. Or if you'd rather have it done for you, book a session for your next event.
More guides: all tutorials · the full smokey eye masterclass · bridal makeup tutorial.