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What it is · How to use it

Concealer

Concealer is a spot tool, not a second foundation. Used as a second foundation it creases, cakes and ages the face.

What is concealer for, and where does it actually go?


It does two separate jobs and they want different placements. Under the eye it is brightening — you are lifting a shadow, not covering a mark. On a blemish it is covering, and it should be pressed on in the smallest possible area.

Full-coverage concealers like Hourglass Vanish are potent enough that two thin layers always beat one thick one. A thick layer is what creases.

How to use it, step by step


  1. Apply under the eye in a small triangle pointing down, not a half-moon.
  2. Blend the edges only. Blending the centre removes the coverage you came for.
  3. Warm it with a sponge rather than a brush — cold concealer grabs.
  4. On blemishes, press with a fingertip and do not buff.
  5. Set lightly with a translucent powder, and only where it will move.

The mistakes that cost you


  • Using concealer several shades lighter as a 'brightener' across half the face.
  • Over-powdering, which is the real cause of creasing.
  • Applying it before foundation, so most of it gets wiped away by the next step.
  • Skipping colour correction under a deep blue-toned shadow, then adding more concealer to compensate.

In Morocco specifically

Under-eye pigmentation is common on warm and olive skin, and it is blue-purple rather than grey. A peach or orange corrector under the concealer will do more than any amount of extra concealer.

The concealer in this kit


Knowing how is one thing. Ninety minutes on the morning is another

I bring every product on this site to brides across Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech and Tangier — matched to your skin, your caftan, and the light you will actually be photographed in.

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